Saturday, 4 August 2018

Yorke Peninsula – on Adelaide's Doorstep

After spending most of the day in and around Moonta, we had to drive to the other side of the peninsula to Port Vincent, only about 90km. We didn't stop in any towns, as we could come back and visit another time. We had booked into Port Vincent Caravan Park and Seaside Cabins as we heard from other happy campers that they had a 'winter special' of $20 per night. This was only the second caravan park we have stayed in this trip as they are usually so expensive. For $20 we had power, water, a great camp kitchen, and new shower blocks. There is also a mini golf course that we were going to use, but the weather wasn't right. We decided to stay for two night, and then an extra night, so three nights. The site we had was right on the water. We could watch the waves and the weather roll in. It was very cold. What are we doing traveling in the winter in South Australia!!!!!
Port Vincent was originally known as Surveyor's Point and was first settled by Europeans in 1852 as pastoral land, and by 1854 some land had been allocated for wheat growing. By 1869 wheat farming was replacing the sheep runs. Surveyor Robert Cook named the town Port Vincent, and called the bay Port St Vincent in 1877 and a jetty was built into the bay the same year. The jetty was needed to transport the grain to Port Adelaide. Port Vincent thrived because it was the only port on the eastern side to have a wharf, and it was the main entry point into the Yorke Peninsula for people and cargo - there was no road until 1949. Port Vincent was, and is a fisherman's haven. Today it is a holiday and retirement town. I was so looking forward to some oysters somewhere along the eastern coast of the Yorke Peninsula – sadly no. Yorke Oysters, we were told, are the sweetest, creamiest oysters and I would have loved to have tried some. Managers at our caravan park recommended a few places to eat. The Ventnor Hotel had a good menu – oysters not available, but the garlic prawns were one of the best we have had. Prices were a bit on the high side, and Peter enjoyed a couple of craft beers. The Port Vincent Takeaway also didn't have any oysters, but we did get some nice hot chips to go with our van dinner of salmon. The menu was very reasonable, so we will definitely be back. Other happy campers had recommended the Chill Out Cafe, as it was 'different' but with power at the caravan park Peter made his own coffee.
Our first road trip from Port Vincent, we drove south along the coast road to Stansbury, located on Oyster Bay. A lovely village that we can only imagine thrives in the warmer summer season. A lot of shops are closed for the winter season. The town was originally named Oyster Bay because of the wonderful oyster beds in the bay. A fitting name! The first pastoralist to the area was Alfred Weaver, who arrived in 1846 to run sheep on his property. He had problems with not only water, but also bushrangers and the local Aboriginal people, which resulted in him leaving in 1848. We have seen no mention of bushrangers in the area. I 'Googled' bushrangers on the Yorke Peninsula and came up with this. Interesting. 
Oyster Bay was surveyed in 1873 and was re-named Stansbury by Governor Musgrave, after a friend. The Oyster Bay Hotel was opened in 1875 and in 1877 there was a port to ship grain to Port Adelaide. By this time there were many oyster dredges, and that started to deplete the natural oyster stock. Stansbury oysters are not sent to the local market. They are mostly used for stocking other oyster beds or sending to Hong Kong and Singapore. However, local tourists can purchase the fresh oysters. Again, I Googled South Australian oyster season and Google said 'oysters season is March through to January' – a long season yet no oysters were available at Stansbury when we were there. Maybe we will taste them next time. We didn't do a lot in Stansbury mainly because it was drizzling and many shops were closed.
Continuing 12km down the coast a short way to Wool Bay, a tiny village between Stansbury and Edithburgh, we drove down to look at the jetty. The jetties here seem to all have a history notice board next to them. We were surprised to find an old Lime Kiln. It was still raining, but this was worth investigating. It was built early 1900 and was used for burning lime. The Lime Industry flourished the first half of the twentieth century. There were number of these kilns around this section of coast, as limestone was readily available. It was mostly used for making building mortar. Due to the position of this kiln, it was not particularly successful. Wool Bay was originally called Pickering, and was founded in 1876 to export lime. It was changed to Wool Bay because there was a cliff face that was the right width and right angle to roll bales of wool down to the beach. The wool industry was still an important export.
Out last coastal village was Edithburgh. The area was first settled prior to 1847 by John Bowden who had a sheep run. There were many shipwrecks off the coast which lead to the erecting of a lighthouse a little further south on Troubridge Island in 1856. There are information boards about the shipwrecks. The town was first surveyed in 1869 and is named after the wife of the South Australian Governor (1868-73), Lady Edith Fergusson. The jetty was built in 1873 and was used to ship lime and gypsum, and later salt to Port Adelaide. The rain had stopped so we were able to walk around the town. Again, it is off season so many places were shut. The buildings are old and full of history. It is good to see them maintained.
We now started the scenic drive along the coast, past Wattle Point wind farm. The wind farm seems to go for ages. Started in 2005 and with 55 wind turbines, they must form part of South Australia's energy plan.
The Troubridge Scenic Drive is a gravel road running about 88km along the beautiful coastline. Photos do not do justice to this beautiful coastline. We stopped at the Troubridge Hill Lighthouse, built in 1890 from wedge shaped bricks, and had lunch a little further south. How is this for a lunchtime view!
Forget the Great Ocean Road do this.
We continued to the cape and then took the main roads back though the peninsula to Port Vincent.

No comments:

Post a Comment