Northampton and Coronation Beach, Western Australia

We headed south towards Geraldton with three options for the night to camp near Geraldton. First stop was Pink Lake again and Port Gregory. Not much in Port Gregory, a beautiful beach, a caravan park and a pub. There were a few houses and some damage from the recent cyclone. But the lake was just so pink. Jonnie loved it and went right down to the water front. Next we passed some convict ruins at Lyndon, but I forgot to ask Peter to stop so we kept going.

We arrived in Northhampton at lunch time and decided to walk up one side of the street and down the other.

We came to the Family Store, located in a building built in 1911. It had lovely high ceilings and half the store had a skylight.

When I inquired if this had been two stores originally we were told that was three. There was once a wall between the general store and next door was a ‘Men’s only place’ of a barber and at the back under the skylight, was a pool table, the third store was and still is a chemist. At the back of the Family Store in what use to be the tannery, is a sewing machine museum, simply bliss.

Most machines are in working condition and the owner, Geoff Cripps services old and new machines.

The lovely lady working there told me about a super cleaning agent for the old machine furniture, and I’ll try it when we get back home.

Northampton is one of the oldest towns in Western Australia and in 1993 was classified as a historic town by the National Trust of Australia. Originally the home of the Amangu peoples, it was explored and settled in the early 1840’s by Europeans after Lieutenant George Grey explored the area. Exploration led to the discovery of lead and copper ore.

Gazetted in 1864, and originally known as The Mines, the whole town is registered as a historic town. It is named after the colony’s Governor, John Hampton. It is situated on the Nokanena Brook between two major copper mines – the Geraldine and the Gwalla. The Geraldine mine, located about 5 km west of Northampton, was the first lead mine in Australia. The information centre is at the top of the town, located in the RSL complex. The RSL has a small display of memorabilia that was very interesting.

The town has a lot of painted sheep, they are everywhere. They are a result of an 2018 festival called 'Ewe Turn' where local artists and community groups painted fiberglass sheep, lambs, rams and a few kelpies, over 50 in total for a competition.  

Very interesting to walk around and see them - some are very clever and funny.

There is a heritage walk up and down the main street, but the highlight was the two buildings built by Monsignor John Hawes. The Church of Our Lady in Ara Coeli, built in 1936, a Neo Gothic / Arts and Craft building made of sandstone, was sadly closed. I would have liked to see the interior. 

Next door the Convent of the Sacred Heart, built in 1919, is more Australian in style with its timber two stories and large wooden verandahs, covered in congregated iron. Prior to this the Sisters lived and worked in poor conditions.

This building is now used as budget accommodation and the back was damaged in the recent Cyclone Seroja (April 2021). Both buildings are on the Permanent Register of the State Heritage Register of Western Australia. I look forward to visiting his heritage centre in Geraldton. We saw many old buildings that were damaged by the recent cyclone.

We checked out our first option for the night, had a drive around and decided to stay a few nights and head into Geraldton to shop and sight-see tomorrow. We found a reasonably good level sight with water views. 

Camping fees were $8 per person per night.

Coronation Beach is beautiful.  

Another Wow for the day. Peter must like it as this is the first time on the trip that he has gone fishing.