The Rocks - Sydney's Convict Colony

The Rocks is more than just old buildings, it is about people and living history. For those passengers from cruise ships spending the day in Sydney, a walk around the Rocks will be well worth it. The cruise ship dock right at the Rocks. The history of Australia starts here. We spent two days walking through the streets, lane ways and alleys and still have so much more to see next time. We stayed a the Russell Boutique Hotel which is a perfect spot to base one self when exploring the Rocks, and it is perfect for those joining a cruise at Circular Quay in Sydney.

The Russell Hotel is located in the 'hospital district' of old Sydney town, and Nurses Walk starts right outside the hotel door. There are many information boards and signs on walls, on posts and even on the ground. The history of Australia's first settlement is well told - although I believe this is the second settlement, with Cooktown being the first some eighteen years earlier (June 1770), but that's another post story!😀
With the American War of Independence, 1775 to 1783, Britain needed to find a new penal colony to send their convicts that were filling up their gaols (jails) and the barges in the rivers. Governor Arthur Phillip arrived at Botany Bay  in January 1788, and settled at Sydney Cove on the 26th, now commemorated as Australia Day or Survival Day. The first settlement consisted of about 850 convicts, guards and officers transported by a fleet of 9 transport ships and two war ships. I'll let the info boards tell the story.

The Rocks has many festivals. Check any 'The Rocks' websites to find out what is on when you will be there. We were there during the 'Untamed Gourmet'....

....and Oktoberfest. Oktoberfest at the Rocks – Munich Brauhouse at the Rocks was overflowing with merry makers. Loud music and food and lots of beer. Vivid in June is also a wonderful festival to visit

When we got back from the cruise it was mid November and Christmas decorations were already up and roads were closed for 'Christmas festivities".

These Christmas 'Sugarplum' soldiers mark the entrance to Starbucks, which is next door to the Russell Hotel, and where Peter went each morning for his coffee

We walked around the streets near the hotel and walked around the Quay - and saw the Celebrity Solstice ...

- and up little alley ways and found the Rocks Markets. These are open air markets held each Sunday with stalls of local crafts and street food. When I lived in Sydney, the markets were held indoors and included a lot of craftsmen actually doing their craft. Very different now.

The following day after breakfast we walked down to the Rocks Discovery Museum in Kendall Lane. It is free entry and a great way to get one's bearings for where to go next. 

The museum tells the story of the Rocks from Aboriginal times right through to the present, using information boards, interactive screens and videos and artifacts.

Other museums that we did not go to include Susannah Place and the Museum of Contemporary Art Australia. Just walking around there is something to see everywhere one looks.

... the colour ....

...the history ....

Everywhere one walks around the rocks there is history. Cadman' Cottage is right on the waterfront and can be seen from starboard side of the cruise ships. I remember visiting the cottage while still at school.

I will let the pictures tell the story.

The Rocks use to be one of the poorest and the roughest areas of the Sydney Cove settlement. Up near the YHA is the Big Dig Archaeology Education Centre which shows a dig that also goes under the YHA hostel. It has story boards that tell the plight of the poor that lived here and portrays the roughness of the times.

The history continues under the bridge to the other side. The First Fleet arrived January 1788, and consisted of 11 ships carrying convicts, soldiers and others ready to develop the new settlement. The Chaplain was Reverend Richard Johnson, and he built the first church using funds he had brought from England and the materials at hand in 8 weeks of arriving in the colony. This church, St Phillips was at the corner of Hunter and Bligh Streets. It quickly outgrew its capacity and the Holy Trinity at Millers Point was established with the corner stone laid in 1840. The name 'Garrison Church' is  nickname given because many of the colonies soldiers worshiped there. The first service was in 1844. There is a full history here.

I remember my dad painting a large painting of the Hero of Waterloo - a pub across the road from the Garrison Church - and I was hoping to see it, or at least find out about it. Of course the Hero of Waterloo was was the Duke of Wellington. In our travels we often see references to Wellington and Waterloo. Wellington became the PM of England in 1828. The Hero of Waterloo was built by George Paton, a Scot, who also helped to build the Garrison Church, in 1843. The stone to build both buildings was from the Argyle Cut. There is more history here.

 

We had a look around but the staff were not very friendly, I don't think they spoke English. There were some art works around, but I couldn't fine my Dad's.

One thing we did like about the rocks was the large amount of information on boards and plaques everywhere,

One of the cafes we visited was La Renaissance Patisserie - The building was built in 1842 by Michael Gannon, a convict from Westmeath, Ireland. Michael and his brother James, both carpenters, were convicted for highway robbery in Meath - Michael for life, and James for 14 years. They arrived in Sydney in December 1820 and by 1829 Michael had his ticket of leave. He was a competent carpenter and builder and accumulated much real estate. He later also became an auctioneer, undertaker, and politician. 

 It was very busy both times we went there. The staff were great and the food was lovely.

There are tables outside at the front and a courtyard at the back, where we ate. The courtyard at the back of the shop still shows evidence of Michael Gannon's workshop.

The food choices in the Rocks area is great. We were only there two nights, and the first day it was hard to choose.

One of the past times at the Rocks - of old and now - is drinking in the pubs.

We didn't do many - we were only there two nights before the cruise. We did go to the oldest pub in Sydney. The Fortune of War is in the same complex as our hotel, The Russell. Built in 1828, by former convict Samuel Terry, who later became quite a businessman in Sydney. The interior has been renovated, except for the front bar, which remains mostly unchanged.

Peter had a tasting paddle.

I liked the cocktails at the Push Bar, a couple of doors down and under our accommodation.

It would be worthwhile doing research before hand if wanting to do a pub crawl. This place we discovered the second day and it appeared to consist of three different pubs. 

We had already arranged to meet family at The Push so didn't enjoy happy hour there.

The Rocks – cobblestoned streets, uneven sandstone surfaces, interesting alleys and lane ways and beautiful old buildings. Living history. Historic pubs – many. Art works. Heaps of places to eat from fast food at the Quay to many little cafes and restaurants. Did I mention history? A wonderful place to visit and immerse in the history. I can't wait for cruising to start again and we can cruise to Sydney and spend the day at the Rocks with family.

Russell Hotel - Most Haunted Hotel in Sydney

Last time we were in Sydney we chose to stay in a hotel in the city. Located in historic buildings in The Rocks area of Sydney, The Russell Boutique Hotel at 143 George Street has boutique rooms across three historic buildings. We had a lot of choices for hotels in Sydney, and all were expensive - even the YHA was expensive for what you got. I think we found the best hotel - perfect location, great room, friendly staff and good amenities. We stayed in room 9 on the top floor of the corner building. It was a double room and we had an extra rollaway for Jonnie.

According to the hotel website, each room is different. Some rooms have en-suites, ours did not and we shared a bathroom with room 10.

The room was spacious, even with the extra bed, and the bed was very comfortable. There was an overhead fan that we used one night (we were there in October). There was only one chair for three of us but that was fine, we had the beds to sit on. We were surprised to have tea, coffee, hot chocolate, biscuits and water provided each day.

A mini fridge with $$ drinks and $$snacks was in the corner of the room, with a kettle (and power-point) - this was the only thing we didn't like - there was nowhere to move the kettle to use it, so we just had to be extra careful when using it. We took the ironing board out of the wardrobe in order to put our suitcases in.

This was the view of Circular Quay from one of our three windows.

The present Russell Hotel was built in 1887. There is a sign on the building that says so. The hotel is built on part of the original site of a convict hospital that opened in 1788, and then a portable hospital. It operated until the 'Rum' Hospital opened on Macquarie Street in 1816. The area was then quarried as the sandstone was used to build many of the early Sydney buildings. In 1823 the land was leased to former convict Samuel Terry, a publican and merchant and businessman. He constructed three buildings on the site in the 1820's that were used as a public house and fostered his brewing interests. After the death of Samuel, the land was owned by his widow and other trustees until her death in 1858. In June 1861 the properties were purchased by William Reilly and he did some rebuilding. 1880 the property was purchased by Thomas Brennan and it was Thomas who built the present corner building, while continuing the licensed premises in the other two buildings. With the death of Brennan the property was sold to Tooth & Co. and remained  the Port Jackson Hotel until 1923 when the Government of the day wanted to reduce the number of licensed premises, it became tea rooms. The upper floors were used for accommodation and became known as the Russell Hotel in 1933. Perhaps the name came from the last publican W. Russell, but the origin of the name is unknown.

Over the years the three buildings have been used as public houses, brewery, taverns and possibly houses of ill repute. At different times it went under the names: Sheer Hulk Tavern, Patent Slip Tavern, Port Jackson Hotel, Whitworth's Cafe, Colonial Cafe, Singapore Cafe, Allens Cafe. Today the Russell Hotel is listed on the NSW State Heritage Register and is a warren of hallways and staircases.

It is a perfect location to explore the early days of Sydney (Port Jackson). It is a short walk to the Cruise Terminal, Circular Quay, Opera House, Harbour Bridge, State Records Office (if doing family tree and convict records) and of course the historic Rocks Area.

Because the hotel rooms run across three buildings on George Street, little court yards appear off some rooms.

Continental breakfast and Wi-Fi is included each day, and although we didn't need to use the wifi, the breakfast was great. Pastries, fresh fruit, boiled eggs, cereal, toast, juice, a variety of teas and percolated coffee.

The dining room - First Fleet Bistro - is at the back of the Fortune of War Hotel, and this is where we had breakfast each morning and one dinner. Dinner can be ordered in either the Push Bar or the Fortune of War and can be eaten in the pubs or in the dining room. We chose the quieter dining room.

.....and it is right next door to Star Bucks!

The hotel also has a beautiful rooftop terrace, that can be a little tricky to find in the rabbit warren of halls and staircases, but that's half the fun.

.... with a view to the Harbour Bridge.

There is also a sitting room with a TV and library of books and games.

It also has a small balcony where one can enjoy an apple from the reception room.

The downstairs bar - The Push Bar, has a variety of beers and cocktails.

I loved my Cosmopolitan

The other on site bar - Fortune of War, is very popular during the day and the evening. It is the oldest pub in Sydney, dating back to 1828.

The three story building is also heritage listed and still has the original wall tiles ceilings and timber features in the main front bar. The rest of bar is believed to be built in 1922, except for the back dining room where we ate, which is newer. The upstairs floors are part of the Russell Hotel. We found a seat and Peter had a beer tasting paddle and I had a moscato.

The Russell Hotel is believed to be the most haunted hotel in Sydney. I didn't look up any of thee ghost stories as I really didn't want to know while we were staying there, other than not wanting to be in room 8 at the back. You can read about the ghosts here, and here.

We loved our stay and would highly recommend this lovely hotel.