The Rocks - Sydney's Convict Colony

The Rocks is more than just old buildings, it is about people and living history. For those passengers from cruise ships spending the day in Sydney, a walk around the Rocks will be well worth it. The cruise ship dock right at the Rocks. The history of Australia starts here. We spent two days walking through the streets, lane ways and alleys and still have so much more to see next time. We stayed a the Russell Boutique Hotel which is a perfect spot to base one self when exploring the Rocks, and it is perfect for those joining a cruise at Circular Quay in Sydney.

The Russell Hotel is located in the 'hospital district' of old Sydney town, and Nurses Walk starts right outside the hotel door. There are many information boards and signs on walls, on posts and even on the ground. The history of Australia's first settlement is well told - although I believe this is the second settlement, with Cooktown being the first some eighteen years earlier (June 1770), but that's another post story!😀
With the American War of Independence, 1775 to 1783, Britain needed to find a new penal colony to send their convicts that were filling up their gaols (jails) and the barges in the rivers. Governor Arthur Phillip arrived at Botany Bay  in January 1788, and settled at Sydney Cove on the 26th, now commemorated as Australia Day or Survival Day. The first settlement consisted of about 850 convicts, guards and officers transported by a fleet of 9 transport ships and two war ships. I'll let the info boards tell the story.

The Rocks has many festivals. Check any 'The Rocks' websites to find out what is on when you will be there. We were there during the 'Untamed Gourmet'....

....and Oktoberfest. Oktoberfest at the Rocks – Munich Brauhouse at the Rocks was overflowing with merry makers. Loud music and food and lots of beer. Vivid in June is also a wonderful festival to visit

When we got back from the cruise it was mid November and Christmas decorations were already up and roads were closed for 'Christmas festivities".

These Christmas 'Sugarplum' soldiers mark the entrance to Starbucks, which is next door to the Russell Hotel, and where Peter went each morning for his coffee

We walked around the streets near the hotel and walked around the Quay - and saw the Celebrity Solstice ...

- and up little alley ways and found the Rocks Markets. These are open air markets held each Sunday with stalls of local crafts and street food. When I lived in Sydney, the markets were held indoors and included a lot of craftsmen actually doing their craft. Very different now.

The following day after breakfast we walked down to the Rocks Discovery Museum in Kendall Lane. It is free entry and a great way to get one's bearings for where to go next. 

The museum tells the story of the Rocks from Aboriginal times right through to the present, using information boards, interactive screens and videos and artifacts.

Other museums that we did not go to include Susannah Place and the Museum of Contemporary Art Australia. Just walking around there is something to see everywhere one looks.

... the colour ....

...the history ....

Everywhere one walks around the rocks there is history. Cadman' Cottage is right on the waterfront and can be seen from starboard side of the cruise ships. I remember visiting the cottage while still at school.

I will let the pictures tell the story.

The Rocks use to be one of the poorest and the roughest areas of the Sydney Cove settlement. Up near the YHA is the Big Dig Archaeology Education Centre which shows a dig that also goes under the YHA hostel. It has story boards that tell the plight of the poor that lived here and portrays the roughness of the times.

The history continues under the bridge to the other side. The First Fleet arrived January 1788, and consisted of 11 ships carrying convicts, soldiers and others ready to develop the new settlement. The Chaplain was Reverend Richard Johnson, and he built the first church using funds he had brought from England and the materials at hand in 8 weeks of arriving in the colony. This church, St Phillips was at the corner of Hunter and Bligh Streets. It quickly outgrew its capacity and the Holy Trinity at Millers Point was established with the corner stone laid in 1840. The name 'Garrison Church' is  nickname given because many of the colonies soldiers worshiped there. The first service was in 1844. There is a full history here.

I remember my dad painting a large painting of the Hero of Waterloo - a pub across the road from the Garrison Church - and I was hoping to see it, or at least find out about it. Of course the Hero of Waterloo was was the Duke of Wellington. In our travels we often see references to Wellington and Waterloo. Wellington became the PM of England in 1828. The Hero of Waterloo was built by George Paton, a Scot, who also helped to build the Garrison Church, in 1843. The stone to build both buildings was from the Argyle Cut. There is more history here.

 

We had a look around but the staff were not very friendly, I don't think they spoke English. There were some art works around, but I couldn't fine my Dad's.

One thing we did like about the rocks was the large amount of information on boards and plaques everywhere,

One of the cafes we visited was La Renaissance Patisserie - The building was built in 1842 by Michael Gannon, a convict from Westmeath, Ireland. Michael and his brother James, both carpenters, were convicted for highway robbery in Meath - Michael for life, and James for 14 years. They arrived in Sydney in December 1820 and by 1829 Michael had his ticket of leave. He was a competent carpenter and builder and accumulated much real estate. He later also became an auctioneer, undertaker, and politician. 

 It was very busy both times we went there. The staff were great and the food was lovely.

There are tables outside at the front and a courtyard at the back, where we ate. The courtyard at the back of the shop still shows evidence of Michael Gannon's workshop.

The food choices in the Rocks area is great. We were only there two nights, and the first day it was hard to choose.

One of the past times at the Rocks - of old and now - is drinking in the pubs.

We didn't do many - we were only there two nights before the cruise. We did go to the oldest pub in Sydney. The Fortune of War is in the same complex as our hotel, The Russell. Built in 1828, by former convict Samuel Terry, who later became quite a businessman in Sydney. The interior has been renovated, except for the front bar, which remains mostly unchanged.

Peter had a tasting paddle.

I liked the cocktails at the Push Bar, a couple of doors down and under our accommodation.

It would be worthwhile doing research before hand if wanting to do a pub crawl. This place we discovered the second day and it appeared to consist of three different pubs. 

We had already arranged to meet family at The Push so didn't enjoy happy hour there.

The Rocks – cobblestoned streets, uneven sandstone surfaces, interesting alleys and lane ways and beautiful old buildings. Living history. Historic pubs – many. Art works. Heaps of places to eat from fast food at the Quay to many little cafes and restaurants. Did I mention history? A wonderful place to visit and immerse in the history. I can't wait for cruising to start again and we can cruise to Sydney and spend the day at the Rocks with family.