Monday 13 June 2022

Eden, New South Wales. PetalliTravellers

Eden is situated on the Sapphire Coast at Twofold Bay, Southern New South Wales, about 470 kms from Sydney on the Princes Highway. We stayed a short 7 minute drive from Eden township at Ingenia Beachfront Holiday Park. We wanted to explore the area, a sort of reconnaissance, for when we come back on a cruise. Yes, it is a cruise ship destination.
So first stop was the Information Centre now re-located to Snug Cove at the Cruise Ship Wharf. Since 2014 cruise ships visiting have been a regular occurrence rather than occasional. To meet the requirements, in 2019, the wharf was extended to approximately 110m in length.
The new Eden Welcome Centre was started in March 2020 and opened in April 2021 and has been waiting for cruise ships to be allowed to visit Australia again.

A beautiful building, with heaps of information about the area. The staff were knowledgeable and so helpful answering all our questions. This new building has a small art space/gallery and a covered outside area which we were told would house market stalls on cruise days.

We were also told that a courtesy bus/es would provided transport up the hill to the town centre,  and return. We will do that, catch the bus up to town, have a walk around (probably have some oysters) and then walk back down to the cruise ship via Warren's Walk off Imlay Street. Bob Warren, a local fisherman, lived at the top of Warren's Walk and one assumes he would walk down the hill to his fishing spots. His house and sheds, although maintained as heritage buildings, were destroyed by gale force winds. The walk is approximately 600 metres and zig-zags past gardens with spectacular views across the port.
Like many NSW coastal towns, Eden has a rich history. First inhabitants were the Tharwa people of the Yuin Clan who lived on the coast from Malacoota in the south up to Merimbula in the north. Captain Cook is believed to be the first European to sight Twofold Bay in 1770.
First Europeans in the area were whalers and sealers as there was evidence of their camps in the area. In 1797, George Bass noted and named Twofold Bay as he passed through. In October 1798, Matthew Flinders and George Bass on their voyage to Van Dieman's Land, sailed into Twofold Bay to find shelter from the strong winds and decided to explore the bays.  They landed on 10 Oct 1798 and named Snug Cove, as a safe haven for shipping vessels. Together they named many of the places around the bay.
The first Australian shore based whaling station was established at Snug Cove in 1828, by Captain Thomas Raine. Whaling in the Eden area continued for the next 100 years, ceasing in 1930. It became the longest continuous shore based whaling operation in the world.
Eden's first buildings, slab huts, were erected about 1833 by the Imlay Brothers at Snug Cove. By 1834 the Government of the time gave permission for a town to be established, but nothing was done until 1843. Several other whalers followed including Benjamin Boyd in 1842. He took over from the Imlay brothers and established and built Boydtown to the south. Boyd wanted Boydtown to be the main shipping and service area and in 1844 built a post office. His plan was not to be, and he went bankrupt and left Australia.
 
 
The first liquor license was granted in 1845 to James Rixon of the Crown and Anchor pub on Imlay Street. It is Edens oldest surviving building and is now a bed and breakfast. Edens first post office was opened in 1847 at the Great Southern, built the same year. Originally a store, it became a hotel in 1880. Balconies were added later. 
The PO then moved to the Crown and Anchor and various other buildings until 1891 when a purpose built building on the corner of Imlay and Mitchell was built. It operated as a post office until 1971, when the PO was moved up to a new building next to the Australasia Hotel. A red phone box still sits at the front of the old PO.
1857, the first government school was started with 12 girls and 30 boys. Eden was named after George Eden who was the British First Lord of the Admirality.Around 1900 Eden was suggested as a future national capital as it had the third deepest harbour in the world.


Eden has many many historic buildings and trails to experience the history of them. Information pamphlets are available at the info centre - I did have to ask for the town walk one. Eden Heritage Walk and drive takes one on a walk through the town. All sites are numbered and the walk takes in amazing views.
Howard's Store, located on Imlay, was built around 1904 by Matthew Howard, who sold motor vehicle oils, parts and tyres. Today it is heritage accommodation.
Hotel Australasia was built in 1909 however was not a licensed hotel until much later. It was known as the largest and most modern building in Eden at the time. It was known as the 'Sanatorium of the South Coast.
The Half House was the first two story house in Eden and was built in 1850. It is known as the 'half' house as the planned extension was never completed. It was used as a Post Office until 1885, and then used as an office of the Government Savings Bank. It is now a private residence. 
The Whale Dreaming Trail starts at Snug Cove and has signage to learn about the traditional owners and their relationship with the whales. The trail continues up Warrens Walk along Imlay Street to the Eden Killer Whale Museum. The views are spectacular.

I will have more about Eden Killer Whale Museum here in a later blog. 
 
This is part of a much longer walk, The Bundian Way, which is gradually being updated to provide safer walkways. It follows the path of Aboriginal migration to follow food sources. Only sections are open now.
 
The Killer Whale Trail covers Eden and surrounding areas. It is better to drive this trail. It takes in 5 historical sites and during whaling season each site can have great views of the whales.
There are board walks: one along Lake Curalo, which is about 3.5km from the cruise terminal at Snug Cove, and meanders around the lake, a 6km return; and Aslings Beach Maritime Walk, a 1.5km from Snug Cove starting at the Historic Cemetery, a 4km walk along the boardwalk to Lake Curalo. There are murals and plaques and information boards all along the pathway.
Killer whales have played an important part in the history of the Eden area. Whale watching in Eden is from mid August, when the whales are heading north, to the beginning of November. The best time to go is September and October when the whales are heading south. Cat Balou Cruises do Whale Watching in season and also a Twofold Bay Highlights Cruise. We are  thinking of doing that when we cruise to Eden in November. Cost at present booking direct is from $50 per person and the cruise is about 2 hours. 

There are heaps of oysters farms in the area. We had a great lunch at Wheelers at Pambula. They usually have tours but the tours were not running (due to 'C') when we were there, tours cost $24 per adult.

Another oyster tour is Captain Sponges Magical Oyster Tour (also closed while we were there) also takes one on a cruise down the Pambula River, samples included. Prices are $70 adult. For those travelling by caravan, there is an oyster tour one can do visiting many oyster farms over as many days as one wants, or has time for. Really lovely oysters in this area.

Just so much to see in and around Eden.

  • beautiful scenery and walks
  • historic buildings
  • beautiful beaches
  • fishing
  • Killer Whale Museum
  • Mary McKillop Hall 
and further afield:
  • nearby towns of Pambula and Merimbula 
  • Green Cape Light House 
  • Davidson Whaling Station
  • Boydtown
  • Ben Boyd National Park
  • Boyd Tower

Not to mention some surprise finds around town.

A beautiful, beautiful area that we will return to.

2 comments:

  1. Oooh, I love oysters, but can only eat them battered and deep fried. They cost $35 a dozen cooked here a bit pricey as we would both want a dozen each!

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  2. Love them anyway Jenny. Yes, they are expensive here too, that's why when we saw them at $18 we got them. We had a lot of oysters that trip.

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