Tuesday 15 December 2020

Kingston, Norfolk Island - Australia's Best Kept Secret.

When I think of Norfolk Island I think of a penal colony, and the home of the Bounty mutineers. We have been to many remains of penal settlements on the Australian mainland and Tasmania, and we have always wanted to go to Norfolk. So when the opportunity came we went. Kingston is the capital of Norfolk Island with many ruins.

Brief Timeline

About 1000-1300 - When Europeans arrived on Norfolk Island, there was evidence of remains of canoes and banana plants. In 1995, investigations found archaeological evidence showing remains of a small village at Emily Bay. It is well documented on-sight and labeled on the ground. In the background is the Government House.

1770 - Captain Cook arrived in Australia on the ship Endeavour in 1770 on his first voyage and named it New South Wales. It was on his second voyage (1772-75), on the ship Resolution, that Cook, while charting Pacific Islands, came across Norfolk Island.

1774 - The island was first sited 10th October 1774 and Cook named it Norfolk Island after the Duchess of Norfolk. The next day a party landed on the uninhabited island and noted the potential of the tall pines for masts and local flax for ropes.

1788 - The first European settlement in New South Wales was established January 1788 by Captain Arthur Phillip. That same year, on March 6, Phillip sent Lieutenant Phillip Gidley King to Norfolk Island with 22 settlers, including 9 male and 6 female convicts, to provide masts and ropes as well as to supplement the food supply for Sydney.  

1790 - 19 March 1790, HMS Sirius was wrecked just off the beach at Kingston, with no loss of life. This doubled the population of Norfolk Island. The Sirius Museum, located waterfront in the old chapel, tells the story of the shipwreck.
1804 - The settlement was no longer needed as the pine tree proved unsuitable for ship masts and the flax plants unsuitable to make ropes.
1806 - The population started decreasing with the island not being self-sustaining and very expensive to run.
1814 - By 1814 the settlement was disbanded and buildings demolished to discourage unauthorised re-settlement, especially by the French.
1825 - The second penal settlement was established, without free settlers, and for the worst of convicts. The first was Van Diemens Land (Tasmania). The Kingston buildings that exist today were built during this time.
1855 - due to public pressure, the settlement was disbanded for the second time and the convicts were transported to Van Diemens Land.
 
1856 - On the 8th June 1856, the 3rd settlement began when 194 descendants of the Bounty ship sailed from Pitcairn Island, some 3,700 miles away. On 23 January 1856, 40 men, 47 women, 54 boys, and 53 girls undertook a 5 week journey to settle on Norfolk Island under a guarantee from Queen Victoria of land grants. 8 June is now celebrated as Bounty Day.
The best viewing point is from Queen Elizabeth Lookout.
Some of the buildings have been restored. Some of these are now private homes, government buildings, 
 or museums. More about the museums in the next post.
The start of a visit to Kingston should be the information centre near the jetty. This area has many photo opportunities. See the Lone Pine at Emily in the background? It is said this pine tree is in drawings made when Captain Cook first visited in 1774.
From there walk up to Flagstaff Hill, visit the old surgeons residence and read about the first Government House and the story of the pine trees. Walk along Slaughter Bay and the ruins of the prison, Polynesian Village excavation, and the salt house
Walk (or drive) along Quality row to see the government buildings and restored houses to the cemetery.

At the old jetty, we were lucky that a cargo ship was unloading while we were there. It was fascinating watching the boats maneuvering past the breakers and out to the ship, and back again - and watching the goods being craned out of the boats and onto the waiting trucks. These supply ships are apparently not a regular occurrence so we were lucky to experience it.
One really needs to visit Norfolk Island and do all the museum tours to get a good understanding of what, and why Norfolk Island is, and Kingston is a good place to start.

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